1time to Cape Town

The best airline in South Africa: 1time. Why might you ask? Because they gave us a free flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town for a delayed flight that made us miss our next mode of transportation. Now that's customer service. Asus (my worst travel customer service experience) could learn a thing or two from 1 time.

Cape Town has an eclectic feel of many different US cities. The port reminds me of Seattle, the bay and shoreline of Waikiki, the downtown sprawl of LA, and the 2nd story balconies along Longstreet of New Orleans.

Took a day hike over table Mountain to get a lay of the land. Started from the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, up Skeleton Gorge to the highest point at Maclear Beacon, across the Central Table, and down Platteklip Gorge and eventually all the way to the coast.

Finished the long day of hiking with great company and a delicious braai of boerewors, lamb chops, and marinated chicken.

24 hours for Victoria Falls

Made a last minute decision and booked a flight to Livingston, Zambia so that I could see Victoria Falls. Multiple visas and park fees to Zimbabwe made it a very expensive day but it was worth it to see one of the 7 wonders of the world. Hundreds of meters of falls with shear power and impressive amounts of water. This was the low season too.

Joburg, makeshift Soweto Tour, and the Apartheid Museum

South Africa is totally different than I expected. It’s very modern, especially Johannesburg. Initially I felt like I was back in the States with the exception of the electric fences surrounding every house and building. Then as I started to explore the city more I felt as if I had been transported to 1960’s America or what I imagined it to be. Very segregated with the gap between upper and lower class being huge. Yet it still seemed much better off than the rest of Africa I’ve seen.

I was planning on doing the Soweto Tour but instead decided to do my own township tour for what I thought would be a more authentic experience. The deeper I went in the stranger the looks I got and the less safe I felt. Wish I had the confidence to take pictures, just memories up here (pointing to my head). I was out of place but it was an eye opening experience.

The Apartheid Museum helped piece together and explain what I was seeing in Johannesburg. The museum consisted of long summarizations of South Africa’s history that I’m sure were good. Instead I was mesmerized by the visuals, the graphic snapshots and video of what had taken place. Very insightful and sobering. 

Journey to Maputo and Nelspruit

Beggars can't be choosers, and that applies to hitchhiking as well. Be selective to ensure a safe trip, but you can't always wait to get all the bells and whistles. If a ride comes and you're comfortable with getting in, take it. I waited 2 hours for a ride that I could've gotten 2 hours earlier. But either way I paid less and slept laying down instead of upright in an uncomfortable bus seat.

Parts of Maputo have the rural Africa feel, but most of it reminded me of Europe and modern city life. Very trendy...must be the Portuguese influence. I felt strangely awkward and out of place there. Am I that used to traveling? Maybe this is how I'm going to feel when I eventually go home.

Nelspruit, South Africa felt like Beverly Hills compared to Maputo, especially the suburbs with huge gated mansions. I was hoping to find a relatively inexpensive safari tour through a backpackers in Nelspruit since it's the closest city to Kruger National Park. I was sorely mistaken. Instead I was able to hitch a ride for several hours with a generous South African/Washingtonian for a fraction of the safari price. We were able to see 3 of the big 5 (rhino, elephant, buffalo) up close and 2 of the 5 with obstructed/far views (paws of several lions lounging on their backs in the brush and a leopard relaxing in a tree a ways off). It wasn't the safari tour I expected or dreamed of as a kid but it was still very enjoyable and informative thanks to Bruno.

Disappointment in Tofo

I had my heart set on seeing manta rays and whale sharks in Tofo, but I went 0 for 2. Expectations too high?

Began with an adventure deep dive at Manta Reef hoping to see the manta rays in their cleaning station. Nowhere to be found. But I did get to swim through shoals of 5-line snapper and big eyed soldiers, as well as see a black ribbon eel, ragged scorpion fish, honey comb moray, several types of groupers, and the well camouflaged painted frog fish. Even though I didn’t see the manta rays, it was still the best dive I’ve done so far.

Followed that with the ocean safari to swim with the whale sharks. Spent 2 days and 5 hours on the water searching, they were also nowhere to be found. Instead I swam with bottlenose dolphins. Flipper was great, but definitely no whale shark. Also saw a white tipped reef shark for a few seconds, but it swam as soon as it saw me (as did I).

I realized I’m getting tired of being a beach bum. Need a change of scenery so I’ll start to head inland. I’m actually tired of the sun. I can’t believe I’m about to admit or even say this, but I miss the rain and clouds of Seattle

So disappointed I only took 1 photo in Tofo.

The most comfortable and efficient overland travel in Africa

2 full days of transportation from Lilongwe, Malawi to Tofu, Mozambique. Started at 10am on day one with several mini buses to Tete, hitchhiked with three different 18 wheelers including an overnight, a 2am taxi that got a flat tire and didn’t have a spare which forced us to walk, and finally another taxi to arrive at 4am on the start of day three.

Hitchhiking is the way to go. Large big rigs, large comfortable beds, and more than enough leg room for less than the price of a mini bus.

Mini bus to Tete

Inside the mini bus. 20+ people squeezed inside.

Our truck driver bargaining for goats.

Sunset

Lilongwe Thanksgiving

 After a 9 hour bus ride and some more minor issues with the buses I arrived in Lilongwe, Malawi to meet up with a couple of my Kilimanjaro hiking mates, Owen and Claire.  They had invited me to their Thanksgiving potluck with their fellow expat and local friends. I was pleasantly surprised, actually elated, when we arrived to find 3 turkeys for 30+ people and all the fixings plus more for a traditional Thanksgiving meal. I was very thankful!

 Followed the day of gluttony with a day of Ultimate Frisbee (way too much running!), viewed the rescued animals at the Lilongwe Wildlife Center, and ate the best Chinese food I’ve had on my trip so far. Who would’ve thought I’d find it in Lilongwe.  It was definitely back to back days of food coma.

Open water in Nkhata Bay

Inexpensive, safe, and so much fun.  That describes the 4 day Open Water Dive certification training I received on Lake Malawi in Nkhata Bay. One of the cheapest locations to obtain the certification, training from reliable and experienced divemasters from Canada and the UK, as well as being awesome overall.

So difficult to describe the sensation you feel as you glide 15m beneath the surface on the lake floor watching mouth breeders scoop up their young in their mouth, upside down fish literally swimming upside down, nest builders cleaning their mating/spawning nests, and the large variety of cichlids swimming by.

Can’t wait to take advantage of my certification by swimming with the manta rays and whale sharks in Tofo, Mozambique (fingers crossed). SE Asia and the Great Barrier Reef are musts as well.

Victory BBQ for completing the certification!

The most eventful bus ride and first impressions of Malawi

The thing that threw me off about Africa (especially the more touristy countries) that I’m finally beginning to realize is that the licensed and official posts like the ferry and bus ticket operators are the ones that try to subtlety take advantage. They’re in those posts because they are the hustlers, “worked” their way into positions.

Almost got taken in Dar el Salaam. At the bus terminal “Michael” sold us direct tickets from Tanzania to Malawi from his official office.  The price seemed high but we were in a rush so we accepted.  When we entered the bus we questioned some other passengers to double check the price. Took awhile but we finally found someone who could speak English well enough, and she just happened to be an off duty officer. We had definitely overpaid. When the other passengers heard of the scheme they trapped “Michael” in. That’s when the story unfolded: there was no direct bus from Tanzania to Malawi; he had made fake tickets under a fake bus operator. What nerve. To make a long story short the mob ruled and we got our money back, “Michael” got booted, and we took a bus as close to the Malawi border as we could.

"Michael"

The days other events…

-          15 hour bus ride and we didn’t get nearly as far as we expected.

-          Our bus got pulled over and ticketed for speeding.

-          Saw 4 overturned vehicles on the road and at one point ours swerved out of control…could’ve been number 5.

-          “Grandma” as I called her kept nudging me awake to point out the main attractions along the way like the railroad tracks and police station. Lovely lady, but I could’ve done without the Swahili tour guide.

Basically folding chairs bolted down to the ground.

Even though I thoroughly enjoyed all the natural beauty Tanzania has to offer I was so thankful to leave. Too much pestering and greed for money, a byproduct of all the tourism.

 Malawi on the other hand has such a relaxed attitude. It’s true what they say, it is the “warm heart of Africa.” From the moment I crossed the border I could notice the difference, although the transportation troubles continued. My first bus driver in Malawi got his license revoked as we were about to depart. I’m so looking forward to making my way overland to Cape Town… ;(

Last meal in Dar...Korean food. Hit the spot.

Prison Island and Nungwi

Last lazy day in Stone Town led to a trip to Prison Island to see the peacocks and giant tortoises as well as snorkeling the local reefs. So difficult to get the motivation to relocate to a new area, too relaxing and comfortable...hakunamatata (an actual Swahili word, not just Disney).

Finally made the move, bunked down in the northern most tip of Zanzibar in Nungwi. Lovely people and somewhat less touristy. White sandy beaches that never get hot to the touch (low iron content?) and the clearest blue ocean.

Took a Dhow boat out to Mnemba Island to snorkel the reef. Great sea life but the sun was too strong. Even with SPF 45 I got sunburned. Trying to avoid the sun now. 2 days travel to Nkhata Bay in Malawi should remedy that.

Dar El Salaam and Stone Town Zanzibar

After a 10 hour bus ride from Moshi to Dar El Salaam I can't watch another Tanzanian directed movie or music video. I'd rather watch Jackie Chan's Tuxedo (my former worst movie) or even Gigli!...actually I take that last part back.

Arrived late in Dar without any accommodation. Luckily I found a room in the city center for only $10/night. Only caveats were it was in the alley of an alley, I was the only non-Tanzanian client in the past month (I actually scanned through the months registry history), and I shared my room with all the insects Tanzania has to offer. Other than that it was a very comfortable room, slept soundly. Maybe I'm getting too used to the backpacker lifestyle.

The ride from the city center to the Zanzibar ferry was interesting. There were 70 people on a bus meant for 30, plus me and my hiking bag. Literally felt like I was in a clown bus. Definitely the only non-local brave enough to withstand the body heat and lack of personal space. But not only did I get some local flavor, I saved myself 10,000 shillings by not taking a taxi (bus cost only 250 shillings). Wish I had taken a picture...but not enough room to get my camera out.

Stone Town on Zanzibar was so relaxing and chill, much needed. Street food was so tasty: fresh seafood skewers, a variety of "pizzas", and sugarcane juice.

A tour of the East Coast of Zanzibar led to swimming with dolphins, both Bottlenose and Humpback, in the Indian Ocean. Amazing creatures but such teases. They'd wait for you to catch up and just as you'd reach out to touch them they'd dart off.

Moshi and the "Whiskey Route" up Kili

The flight to Kilimanjaro was a little sketch, but we made it safely.

Day 1
From Machame Gate through the Kili rain forest and alpine desert, pole pole (slowly slowly) was the theme of the trek. The light mist and rain reminded me of a early winter day in Seattle.

Day 2
A clear morning, spectacular views through the clouds and an afternoon downpour (so glad I rented rain gear) led to Shira Camp.

Day 3
Rolling valleys, temporary acclimation at 4,630 m via the Lava Tower, the first site of snow, and eventually Barranco Camp to end the night.

Day 4
Bouldering up the Barranco Wall, jumping off a cliff for a picture that never developed (and almost halted my ascent), and an afternoon hail led to Barafu, the final camp before the summit.

Day 4/5
After a short and restless nap we began the final ascent at midnight. 4 layers on bottom (LJ's, sweats, trousers, and rain pants) plus 4 layers up top (shirt, sweatshirt, windbreaker, and down jacket), not to mention the several layers of socks and gloves kept me at a bearable temperature. A physical and mental challenge could describe the 7 hour ascent to 5895 m and Uhuru Peak. Music on the IPhone was key to my success. Capped the day off with 6 hours of descent down to 2,800 m. Exhausting day.

Day 6
Best 11 hour sleep of my life, helped to alleviate the effects of the mild altitude sickness. Then a lazy victory hike down to Mweka Village to end the unforgettable journey of the unpredictable Mt. Kilimanjaro.