Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Sahara Desert trek

I planned on doing Morocco on my own using only public transportation, but after looking at the bus schedules I realized I didn't have enough time. Instead I booked a three day excursion. Only one word to describe the experience: legendary.

Too eventful to describe everything so I'll just give a brief recap.

Very long and windy van ride through the Atlas Mountains, both too and from Marrakech to the Sahara Desert. Tangine and Cous Cous for midday and evening meals. Can't ever go wrong with that.


The first day a post lunch stroll through Ait Benhaddou turned into crossing a flooded path through a silty river by foot to save ourselves a 50 dirham donkey ride across. In return we received a refreshing mud bath for our legs as well as a game of footie (soccer) with the local kids.


The second day, some bouldering through a scenic gorge and a several hour camel ride across the Sahara produced a very sore bum, a beautiful sunset, an amazing moonlit sky, and a night with the Berbers.




The final day, the most unforgettable sunrise atop the highest dune in Merzouga, sandboarding down the dune, and a ride back to civilization on top of a 4x4.


The scenic route

The 10 hour train ride to Madrid was bearable as I was asleep half the time. The other half was spent pondering why my bed was creaking when I wasn't moving, how many of the train's parts were loose from all the jostling, and questioning if I could nudge my neighbors or just wait for them to naturally stop snoring.


The 6 hour layover in Madrid was fantastic. Large parks and treelined streets always get me. Plus the Bull Fighting arena...so cool. Didn't get to do a tour inside but the photo exhibit got me hooked. Definitely have to attend an event when I make it back here.


Overnight in Algiceris was entertaining. The tapas tasteful, the company likeminded, and having a room with a TV to myself: blissful. But the town is a port town and just a port town.

A 45 minute bus ride the next morning led me to paradise at first site in Tarifa. After 5 minutes of laying on that wonderfully scenic beach I realized why I was the only one "enjoying" it. There's a reason it's known as a windsurfer's paradise....felt like I was being rubbed down by sandpaper, 500 grain. On the bright side my skin was silky smooth ;) The rest of the town and views WAS paradise, should've spent a night there.

The 35 minute high speed ferry to Tangier, Morocco has nothing on the ferries in the Puget Sound. It only had one outdoor balcony, and it was for the smokers in the back. So not worth the €37.

My first steps in Africa were interesting. I'm still not sure if I was being conned or how I was being conned but something wasn't right. These "tourism" officials in street clothes and hidden badges (homemade?) were trying to escort me to the bank and a taxi, but they were also giving me very useful tips. Don't know what was up...or down, but it took me 30 minutes to lose them. As for the rest of Tangier, it feels like they're trying to reinvent their image with lots of new construction, but you can't change the people. The sad thing is it's the initial rush of constant pestering that turns you off. Once you get past them everyone is so friendly, but by then you're skeptical of everything.


The overnight Marrakech train was much older and smaller than the one from Madrid, but I slept so much more soundly. Not only was the train more sturdy, but in my compartment was a tour operator owner. I told him my of my travels and why I came to Morocco so he wrote me a travel itinerary so that I could explore the country without a guide that included 2 nights with the berbers, Fez and Casablanca using public transportation. Peace of mind really does makes a difference with sleep.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Day in and day out for Lisbon

The essence of the city was just what I needed, slow and relaxed. The most chill city I've been to. It took a full day to arrive here, and another full day to leave, but it was definitely worth it.


View from Castelo de Sao Jorge

Can't get enough of the architecture and the Spanish tiles. So whimsical. And the food so simple yet so tasteful. Best of all...cheap.


Homemade cheap food by Nuns! Not only was the food good, but the view too.

Traditional Portuguese BBQ chicken. So simple yet so good.

And freshly washed clothes...gotta love it.

Now I'm off to Marrakech, Morocco. To get there I start off with a night train to Madrid, then a day train to Algeciras and a restful night there in my first single room of the trip. Can't wait for some privacy and my own space. In the morning a short bus ride to Tarifa and a ferry to Tangier, Morocc. After all day exploring the city a night train to Marrakech, Morocco. In the morning and 3 nights later I'll be at my destination. I know it's much faster and cheaper to take a flight, but I wanted to take the scenic route. What's the point of traveling and exploring if you skip everything?

Rush through Valencia

The city was so relaxing with a great mixture of old and new. What impressed me most was that because of a flood and the devastation that ensued, they diverted the river and made the former riverbed into a park.

The Valencia Science Museum and Oceanic Park were definitely better than the Seattle Science Museum and Aquarium. So interactive. And the Aquarium even had a shark tunnel and 2 Beluga whales. Even 7 hours wasn't enough time to fully enjoy all the attractions. I felt like a kid again. I know Ethan and Matthew (my nephews) would have had a blast.


The tapas were good too. Next time I need to be more selective in my choices. Too much seafood...especially after the incident in Seattle. I'm sure Hong and Julia Gulia can attest. But thankfully not the same outcome.


I definitely need to come back to the South of France and Spain, as well as Italy too. So much more to see and experience.

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Hectic farewell to Barcelona

Picasso's earlier work was more impressive to me than his abstract period. Too bad they don't let you take any photographs.

La Rambla street and Mercat de la Boqueria (street market) were a treat. The street performers were the best I've seen plus the market had the most variety and tasty food.


The Olympic Park was amazing. Such a contrast from the rest of the city. Great views too.


The beach in Barcelona had real sand. Need I say more. Just take a look at the pictures.


You can't beat €2 shots like the picture below, but they creep up on you. Almost missed my train to Valencia because of them. Woke up 30 minutes before my train was to leave. Had to pack my bag, check out, run to the metro, take the metro, run through security, and then hop on the train just in time. I'm tired just describing the ordeal! I feel like I can handle the decathlon now.

Friday, October 15, 2010

Nice thoughts

The South of France is what I imagined all of Europe would be like... I guess too much Hollywood on my part.


I was told the Chagall exhibit in Nice was a must. He definitely saw the world from a different perspective, maybe a little crazy? Wouldn't have understood any of his artwork without the audio commentary, and I liked how they used "obviously" in every other sentence.


A day trip to Eze Village and Monaco was spectacular. It reminded me of driving down highway 101, very scenic. Although, from atop Eze Village it was pretty difficult to get views of the surroundings unless you pay. I noticed one particular restaurant had spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea so I decided to go in for lunch. I soon found out it was a one star Michelan restaurant as I looked at the lunch prices. I decided to opt for a latte instead. Most expensive cup I've had, but worth every dollar. Views were amazing.


Not sure why but I was extremely happy being in Monte Carlo. Maybe it was the weather or the fact that I was actually in the South of France, but I had a grin from cheek to cheek all day long. Must have looked like a fool.


The French TGV railway went on strike. Had to find other means to get to Spain. Luckily I was able to book the last seat on the midnight Euroline Bus for Barcelona.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Is what they say about Paris true?

Not everything they say about the French is true. I was told they won't speak English especially when asked for directions and that they can be very rude. My experience was the opposite. Once they heard my accent they would immediately switch to English and they were extremely friendly. But a lot of what they say is true as well. The pastries are amazing, so flakey with buttery goodness they melt in your mouth. They do love saying "Pardon" in that lofty accent. And much of Paris does smell like pee...I saw many a time a Parisian doing his business in the middle of the sidewalk.

Baked potato drenched in chili and sour cream - reminded me of camping

Leon de Brussels - before...

...the aftermath


The Louvre was grand. Didn't expect the Mona Lisa to be so small.


The grandeur of the Palace of Versailles was lost on me. The curator decided to allow an exhibition of Japanese anime characters all throughout. Like the ushers working there I will not comment on the taste. The palace grounds though were delightful.


Interesting exhibition in Versailles...no comment

Notre Dame was very accommodating, allowing free public tours even during mass. But people please, stop using flash!

I don't see how the Eiffel Tower is romantic. 1 hour wait to get up to the 2nd level. Another hour wait to get to the 3rd level (top). Then finally another hour wait to get back down. I guess romance is all about waiting?


The outdoor capital of the world - Interlaken

My original plan was to do the 400+ ft bungee jump from the gondola but after 2 late trains and an added transfer to get to Interlaken I missed my opportunity (still have chances in South Africa or New Zealand). Instead I was pleasantly surprised with 4-5 hrs of canyoning: cliff jumps, slides down rock faces, and rappelling. Ridiculously fun. Some pictures and video to be posted later.

The city itself was very beautiful and the views majestic. Surrounded by mountains and a lake on all sides.



Another home cooked meal...probably the best I've had

This isn't amateur chef hour anymore...

Side note: Interlaken has extreme sports, but it's also extremely expensive (as is the rest of Switzerland).

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Overwhelmed by Rome

The Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Colosseum, Palatino and Foro (ruins), Vatican, Sistine Chapel, and St Peters Basilica were just a few of the many sites I visited in the jam packed 4 days I was in Rome. So much history to absorb in such a short period of time. By far the most impressive site in Rome...the whole trip...my whole life(?), was the Vatican City including St Peters Basilica and the Sistine Chapel. In 2007 a study estimated the total material costs excluding the artwork, which is too difficult to value, of the Vatican City at approximately $4 trillion. That's almost a third of the US deficit. And St Peters Basilica alone has over 4 tons of gold on it's ceiling...just on it's ceiling! And my favorite sculpture the Pieta by Michelangelo is housed there too.  They definitely didn't care about budget. And don't get me started about the Sistine Chapel. Genius. I'm still comprehending and overwhelmed about what I just saw.

Trevi Fountain at night

Colloseum at night.

Me in Rome.

Don't really know what this is...but I saw it on all the postcards.

Michelangelo's Pieta

Another home cooked meal. Met a lot of amateur cooks in my hostels.